Category: Front Suspension

Questions we’ve been asked about front suspension- Mustang II vs. solid axle, four link, hairpins, etc.

Dear Welder Series… 1953 Ford parts list?

Dear Welder Series…
I am looking for help with my 1953 Ford build.
I have purchased a 1993 LS1 motor, a 700 trans and a 12 bolt rear end I am trying to fit in the truck. The wheels I will be running are 30″ on the outside, 10 3/4″ wide with a 6 7/8 offset from the back of the rim. My goal is to set the bumpers and running boards on the ground with a full air ride. Is there a chance you could specify what I will need to purchase from your catalog to get all my frame welding going? As it stands right know I have pulled all the suspension out of the truck and it is just sitting on the frame now. Would love to order everything for Christmas. Thank you for your time and please feel free to call with any other questions you might have.
Keith

Dear Keith…
Keith, here are some links to kits for this build:
Choose a 60″ track width kit for your F100.
If you will use conventional air springs:


If you plan to use ShockWaves:

If you will use a power rack from a 79-92 T-Bird, order the relocation kit:

There are several different LS engine mount kits.  They are shown at

For your 700 R4 transmission, here are 2 options:
A simple crosmember and drop-out saddle (check out the “welded” version):

Or a tubular center section (with the 700R4 trans mount option):

For either of the above, use transmission mount insulator

If your 12 bolt rear end has the ears for the triangulated GM links, you could use our rear kit:

We would add brackets if you will use conventional air springs.

 

The crossmember shown below can be used to mount the upper end of the ShockWave (with 5/8″ hardware), or shocks with 7/16″ upper eyes.

If you plan to use a parallel rear 4-link, here are the kit pages:

For ShockWaves:


Use the rear crossmember with 5/8″ bolts.
With shockWaves on either the triangulated or the parallel kit, use the bolt kit here:

I hope this list helps.  Please write or call on our toll-free line, 1-888-648-2150, if you want more details.

Dear Welder Series… Vega bracket question

Dear Welder Series…
Do you have a drawing/instuctions for the installation of your Vega box bracket? Will I have to drill out all or any of the threaded tabs on my Vega box? The reason I ask is that the picture I saw in your catalog shows only bolts no nuts. Is the box bolted to the bracket or nut and bolted through the bracket?

Dear Brock…

Brock, this is a link to the Vega bracket page on our site. Scroll down and click in the installation link for more details.

Yes, the “top” threaded boss on the Vega box has to be drilled out. We supply a 7/16-20 (fine thread) bolt and a boss for that hole. The lower holes in the box are threaded and we supply the bolts for them, too.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… drag link lengths?

Dear Welder Series…
Can you give me the actual length of the drag link tubes that you offer? I do not want to order a drag link based on the year and length of the axle. There are to many versions out there and would rather not get into shipping parts back and forth scenario due to wrong lengths.
Thanks.

Dear Sam…
I understand what you’re saying, Sam. On the right side of the blog, download the “58 page catalog” and then go to page 14. You do not have to print the catalog, just open the download.(Maybe you know that and maybe you don’t… but 58 pages is a lot to print out if you don’t know…) The tube lengths are all listed, with our part numbers.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… how to lower my Model A?

Dear Welder Series…
Just started a Rat Rod Model A Ford.
I chose a Model A becouse my family collect them and we have lots of cool parts to make one with.
But I am stumped on how to lower the front end  and where to get information and parts.
I like the suicide front end and have seen the options you offer like the Flat Front crossmember & the spring perch kit. Would I need both?
Can I order the Suicide spring perch kit already welded?
I work at a large car dealership and have access to getting some help and welding but mostly trying to build it with my sons.
I have watched some of your videos already and they are very helpful – are there any more that would help me with the front end?

Thanks

Dear Kenneth…
Kenneth, the flat front crossmember (below) is designed to mount the spring in the channel, much like a stock Model ‘A’ front crossmember.

The suicide perch (below) is designed to mount the spring ahead of a round tube front crossmember.

You would not use both of them. The suicide perch is not offered welded because the main plate gets welded to the crossmember first and the gussets would be in the way.

I hope we can help with parts for your project.

Dear Welder Series… Front four link brackets?

Dear Welder Series…
We are building a 1936 ford pickup. It’s chopped, channeled over a 2×3″ (.125) frame. It will be sans fenders. The bed is custom & short. We are using a 9″ ford rear. I watched your video about the 4-bar brackets using one piece of plate & laser cutting the folds. Very interesting. Do you also make the front brackets for the 2×3″ frame? If so what is the cost. Do you have a catalog ?
tucker

Dear Stephen…
Stephen, 4-bar frame brackets are at:

There are lots more parts throughout the store site. The fold-and-weld rear axle brackets have been replaced by brackets that are already formed.

Please send your mailing address and we will send a paper catalog to you.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II Shock Hats Only?

Dear Welder Series…
Is there anyway to get just the mustang II shock hats?

Dear Paul…
We can do this, Paul…

If you need just the cones, they are shown here:

If you need the complete upper towers, they are part #’s 14323 and 14333, all welded, for #91.00 each.  You should also order the upper tower boxing plates, 2 of #14308 at 4.50 each.

Let me know if you need the upper towers complete, but not welded.  I’ll send a list of the parts with their prices.

Supplying components for chassis builders is what Welder Series was originally set up to do.

Thanks for looking at our parts.

Dear Welder Series… tie rod end bung?

Dear Welder Series…
Hi I was wondering does the threaded spacer you sell would that fit the part on an early ford tie rod end that would be facing the front of the car if someone bought your through frame radius rod kit?

Dear Aaron…
Aaron, we don’t have a threaded spacer with the 11/16-18 thread to match the early Ford tie rod end… but we could make them. They would be 1″ o.d. x 11/16-18 RH i.d. and about 4″ long. They’d sell for $6.00 each. The part I’m thinking of would be the frame end of a hairpin radius rod or the frame end of a split wishbone. Please let me know if this is the part you need.

[update: this part has been added to our catalog.]

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Split Wishbone Question

Dear Welder Series…
Hi, I have a question fer ya.
I have a split bone suspension (’28 Model A) and am going to use each arm independently (as opposed to joined in the middle). I want to use rod ends to join them to each side of my frame (2×4 1/8th inch mild steel). What parts / sizes would you recommend?
Any and all info would be greatly appreciated.
Regards
Roger.

PS; it’s going on a ’26 model T roadster Rat Rod with a “Zd” frame

Dear Roger…
Roger, if you are using spherical rod ends (“Heims”), and want to run the bolt through the frame rail, you could weld a #212321 spacer into each of the rails to keep the walls from collapsing.  Use a 5/8″ rod end.

If the rod end will mount below the frame rail (or above it), you could look at using 2 Versatabs each side:

trimmed to put the rod end where you want it, and use spacer #10767 between the plates.

The Versatabs will have to be drilled out to 5/8″.

If you will use an early Ford tie rod end, you could use our hairpin mount kit, #229000

And, if you want to mount a tie rod end below (or above) the frame, we have 3/8″ thick tabs which you can taper:

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Thru-Frame Tie Rod End Mount question

Dear Welder Series…
Hi I was wondering if your through frame radius rod end kit fits on to 27″ hairpins or is it able to be adapted with some threaded tube and some cutting and welding?

thanks
Aaron

Dear Aaron…
Aaron, our thru’-frame kit is made to work with early Ford (generally 1940 – 48) tie rod ends. These tie rod ends have a male thread 11/16-18. If your radius rods can accept this tie rod end, I feel our kit will work. (Tie rod ends are not included in the kit.)

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… 1951 F1 Mustang II & Four Link?

Dear Welder Series…
I’m just getting started on a frame-off resto for a 1951 Ford F1 Pickup. What do you have available for a Mustang-2 IFS Kit and a 4-Link Rear Kit.
Thanks, Jay

Dear Jay…
Jay, we have two Mustang II kits that you could consider. Here they are:

You will need the 58″ model of these kits.

At the back, we have parallel and triangulated rear 4-link kits (shown below)

A Panhard kit (shown below), should be used with the parallel kit.

 

We also have engine & transmission  mounts and brake pedal assemblies that would be great on your F-1.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Dear Welder Series… Which Rack?

Dear Welder Series…
I am starting to rod a 1962 Ford Falcon station wagon. I have a Mustang II Rack (power) & the rest of the front suspension. Can I purchase the crossmember to weld in & use these parts? I have the 1966 mustang GT 289 & all the mounts & brackets.
Peter

Dear Peter…
Peter, our crossmember can be used with stock or aftermarket parts made for 1974 – 78 Mustang II. Racks from 1978 – 1993 Mustangs can also be used.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II coil over length question

Dear Welder Series…
Hi Paul,
I recently bought a coil over MII kit from you. I see a recommended ride height for the coil overs, but how about extended and collapsed length, or shock travel length?

Thanks
Matt

Dear Matt…
Matt, we define a coil-over’s ride height as eye center to center compressed 1/3 of the stroke from fully extended. For example, a coil-over with an extended dimension of 13″ and a compressed dimension of 10″ would have a designed ride height of 12″. Similarly, a coil-over with an extended dimension of 14-1/2″ c-c and a compressed dimension of 10″ would have a designed ride height of 13″. A shock with 3″ of travel will be fine for a MII front end. Shocks with longer stroke have the potential for a better ride, but only if the chassis is built so nothing tops or bottoms out with the extra travel.

I hope this helps with your selection.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… will original Mustang II parts fit?

Dear Welder Series…
Is your crossmember compatible to the original Mustang II upper and lower A arms? I am building a 36 Dodge Sedan D2.

Thank you..Tommy

Dear Tommy…
Yes, Tommy, our crossmember is compatible with stock upper and lower arms from 1974 – 78 Mustang II and 1974 – 80 Pinto.  You may want to order the strut rod frame mounting kit (shown below), if you are using the stock lower arms.

Thanks for looking at Welder Series parts.

Paul Horton

Dear Welder Series… Mustang II Installation Instructions?

Dear Welder Series…
I purchased a Welder Series coil over front end kit for my 1952 GMC pickup. During the process I seem to have misplace my installation guide instructions. Can you mail me a new copy or email me a new copy either would be of great help.

Dear David…

David, check out the link below for more info on assembly and installation.

https://shared-assets.adobe.com/link/189346d8-00f3-41e6-4c58-dc618a54dd23

If it dosn’t load for you, please phone DW at 1-888-648-2150. He will get things looked after. (I’m on vacation and haven’t been getting emails since late last week.)

Thanks for your business. I hope the install goes smoothly for you.

Dear Welder Series… Model A Mustang II Question

Dear Welder Series…
Will the MII hub to hub IFS for a 1928-31 fit on a 2×3 rectangular frame? Also what is the min and max width it will fit. I’m building a 1927 full fendered Ford.
Thanks

Dear Howard…
Howard, our Model ‘A’ Mustang II crossmember (below),

is designed to fit a stock or reproduction Model ‘A’ frame. The crossmember takes into account the tapers in the stock dimensions of the Ford frame. The upper spring towers weld to the outside of the frame and to the top of the crossmember “wings”. The nominal dimension at spindle centerline is 26″. There wouldn’t be much more tolerance than +/- 1/2″ on that.

I hope this helps.