Category: Brakes

’32 Update: booster or no booster (article 24, archived)

If you can't decide whether to run power brakes or not, or if you just want to experiment like we did, just run braided lines to the master cylinder from the frame.

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’32 Update: Brake Pedal Pad Bracket (article 50)

I installed our brake pedal pad bracket and thought I’d show the progress…

brake pedal bracket
Here’s the kit – stainless brackets, stainless hardware, and instructions.

brake pedal bracket
One bracket goes on the outside of the pedal, and the other bracket sandwiches the pedal on the inside.  The masking tape is how far the pedal goes during full travel.  As you can see, I’ll have to trim the leading edge of the pedal.

brake pedal bracket
The two holes in the pedal let you set up the bracket to a comfortable angle for your foot.

brake pedal bracket
The slots in the two brackets line up for your pedal pad to mount to.

brake pedal bracket
Another feature of the slots is to let the pedal pad move up and down, effectively modifying your pedal ratio.

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’32 Update: E-Brake Linkage Revisited (article 42)

As I’m reassembling the car, there are some things that I think I should have explained a little better at the time of the first article. The emergency brake handle mount is a neat little piece, but I don’t think I explained how it attaches to the floor.

See that little bung at the left end of the ‘canoe’? The bottom of that bung sits on the top surface of the bottom floor panel. Get that? I think you will. I cut up the Lokar ratchet mechanism and incorporated it into the canoe, which drops the handle into the floor.
The canoe was made from the outside section of a bent 1-5/8″ tube.
This is the hole where the canoe sits.
Below the 2″ thick floor, the linkage fits through a slot in the bottom floor panel. I bent up a linkage rod required to clear the center section tube and threaded it on both ends.
I drilled and tapped the Lokar brass block so it would work with my threaded linkage rod.
I used a 3/8″ heim joint (or “rod end”) to support the linkage rod and also to serve double duty as the upper bolt for the transmission mount.

A little out of place, but an update nonetheless. I put heat shrink on the wires as they exit from the frame rail and tuck in to the grille shell so they won’t stand out like… wires.